Sean: I just picked up a 22 ton log splitter from TSC and was wondering what it would take to buy a ram, hoses and valve to change my Model3 into a hydrolic bender? Can I T off the existing lines with quik disconnects then run long hoses to the bender? The motor is a 6 hp Briggs.

Cheers!

What size lines should I run?
What kind of connectors?
Are PA valve controls poop?
What size ram should I run?

I guess this is for me..lol

I would need the max pressure from the log splitter to do some calculations or a model# from TSC if they have it on the web. Then I can make some suggestions.

The power unit is the expensive part and you already have that, its just sizing everything to match that now. Quick connects will work well. 3/8" ( -6 ) hose should be fine. Give me what ever info you have on the unit and I will see what I can do. I do have a cylinder in stock that should work for your bender.

Sean.
905-331-9598 shop

These are the online specs that I could find. But TSC only has current flyers. So I will varify tonight with the manual:

6.1/2" x 8" Beam
4 1/2" x 24" Cylinder
1 3/4" Cylinder Rod
Auto Return Valve
High output 2 stage - 16GPM pump
Replaceable Spin On Filter
28 Ton Splitting Force
12 second cycle time
26" Maximum Log Length
33 quart Hydraulic Capacity
Approximate Shipping Weight 665 pounds

Sean: is that a slow ram or fast ram? I don't want to bend 90's in 2.3 seconds ;-)

John,
The 4 1/2" bore size for the ram is not a standard size, can you confirm that.

So basically what you have is a power unit that will put out about 16 gpm up to around 800 psi and then the pump drops down to 4 gpm up to around 3000 psi. I will base everything on the 4 gpm up to 3000 psi part of the pump, we can lower the cut out pressure of the second stage down to around 300 psi so it should not be a big problem. I assume your log spilter has a valve on it that you move forward to split, when it gets to the end of the stroke it returns automatically and then there is a cam that will hit the lever on the valve to put it in neutral when the ram gets all the way back until you activate it again? You should be able to use this valve for the bender, just try and feather the valve to control the speed of the log splitter, if you can do this in both directions, then you can use the valve, you will just put the ram near the end of the stroke so that it does not interfere with the valve and then disconnect the hoses to the ram on the log splitter and attach them to the bender. ( quick connects will work well here). Then use the pump and splitter valve to run the bender.

Based on the info you gave me, with a 2 1/2" bore 24" stroke bender cylinder you would get about 8 tons of power pushing at the ram, plus the mechanical advantage of the bender and this would bend anything you would try to bend( before breaking something else on the bender). The 24" stroke ram will allow a one shot 90deg + bend with out having to re-pin the bender, I like this feature of my design. your 90 deg bend should take around 12 sec with a faster return. With nothing in the bender to force the pressure above the 300 psi cut off for the hi-flow part of of your pump you could stroke fully out in under 2 sec and return even faster, if you held the valve wide open. But thats just for showing off. LOL

I have not made up a kit for the JD2 model 3, but it looks to be the same set up as the 105HD we just finished. You would need the modified cylinder with mounting tubes a couple of hoses some quick connects and your about done. If the valve will not work then I can get one that will work for you too.

Give me a call if you want to talk about it 905-331-9598
Are you going to PJF4x4 at the end of the month?

Sean

I would prefer to leave the log spliter outside and just work off the bender. So have a 'T' fitting on the supply and return of the splitter and run about 15' of line to the bender. Then have the valve located there. Is it possible to split the existing line and add a T with quik disconnects?

You can not really TEE into the existing lines, because your valve is open center and the oil would just go back to tank. You could put quick connects on the power unit so you just unplug the two hoses going from the power unit to the splitter valve and then plug your bender hoses to the power unit that will go to your new valve mounted on the bender. You could run a couple of flow control valves inline to the bender valve and run a 110v pendant to control the bender valve or a manual valve.

hmmmmmmmmmmm duh!

;-)

So could I put two shut off's and two T's on the supply and return then quit disconnects to the T's back to the Valve on the Bender? or is this asking for trouble?

Looking at the manual it has the following specs:

-4"x24" ram
-190cc briggs and stratton
-auto-return
-two stage 11gpm pump
-cycle 14 seconds

Ok, thats better info, with the 11 GPM hiflow pump you will get 2.9 gpm low flow, which is better, about 18 sec 90 deg bend.

I would install two 3 way ball valves inline with the pressure and return hoses going to the Splitter valve. On the 3rd port either put quick connects or your hoses directly and then bring them in the shop for the bender. When you are using the splitter, the valves are straight, when you want to use the bender just turn the valves 90 deg and the flow from the pump will now be directed to your bender. Install your bender valve and cylinder and your good to go.

Now we are talking ! So what does your ram have that I can't pick up at PA? How much?

You should be able to get everything you need at Princess Auto. Cylinder, new cross tube, bushings, valves etc. Just make up a mount like the one in the above pic, weld on the mount and new cross tube, install the bushings in the cross tubes and you will have our cylinder. You need to take the cylinder apart before welding or you will melt the seals and reinstall the gland with out seals so you dont warp the cyl tube then put it all back together.

Our Price for the cylinder is $ 425.00, it is better quality than PA, uses lipseals not O-rings for the piston and rod gland and would be bolt in. But I have not done a JD2 model 3 before and would need to find a bender locally to check the bracket or make a new one specific for that unit to make sure it wil work for you.

I also have a single valve 6 port 2 way that would allow you to switch the pressure and return lines on the splitter to either the splitter or bender with just one lever. $ 160.00

Directional control valve for bender operation $ 175.00

Then you will need various fitting, hoses , quick connects etc.

nice cylinder